![]() ![]() So far, though, the chefs seem to be playing it safe: no chicken feet, lungs or tripe. He reputedly has over 1,000 varieties in his repertoire and serves around 40 on weekends. ![]() The dim sum chef, Joseph Ng, trained in Hong Kong and worked in Brooklyn’s Chinatown. Chef Tyson Wong Ophaso, born in Thailand but ethnically Chinese, trained under Claude Troisgros and worked at Le Cirque, Lutèce, La Cote Basque and Lotus. The menu is not of mind-boggling Chinatown length and variety, but instead offers a conservative selection of regional Chinese dishes, including dim sum, barbecue and recognizable classics such as Peking duck, General Tso’s chicken and crispy orange beef. Paintings by Robert Kushner cover the west wall. A line of black leather banquettes, modeled after Chinese imperial beds, separates the dining room from the black granite bar. The red-and-black dining room is decorated with silk tapestries and canopies, antique mirrors and damask curtains in vivid hues of orange, turquoise and green. Georgis, is on two levels, with a lounge below where koi swim in a mirrored pool. The restaurant, designed by architect William T. ![]() John McDonald and Josh Pickard, the creators of Lure and Lever House, have transformed the space that used to be Time Café on the corner of Lafayette and Great Jones Street into a glamorous, bustling Chinese answer to Balthazar. He was lying in a red stroller that exactly matched the color of the silk lanterns hanging above him, wiggling his tiny, pink bare feet. Now, still close to home 17 years later, eating oysters deep-fried in fortune-cookie-shaped wontons and fabulous green dumplings stuffed with mushrooms and corn, I observed the youngest customer in the new Chinatown Brasserie. Ever since my son was old enough to bang on a glass with a pair of chopsticks, I’ve been going for dim sum in Chinatown, a few blocks away from where I live. ![]()
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